A short, opinionated list of the places I send friends to when they visit. Updated whenever I remember to.
Quiet streets, independent shops, and the best light in the afternoon. Where I'd stay if I were visiting.
Where the river meets the sea. Worth the tram ride just for the walk along the water at sunset.
Less polished, more lived-in. Good markets and the kind of cafés that haven't changed in decades.
Small bakery on a corner. Get there before ten or the good pastries are gone.
Unremarkable from the street, excellent inside. Strong coffee and quiet enough to read.
Lunch only, no menu — you eat whatever they made that day. Always good.
The metro is easy and cheap; buy a rechargeable card at any station. For the hills, just accept that you'll walk — it's half the point of the place.